Dog Beach

Vancouver's about as dog-friendly as it comes, but they're still pretty strict in regards to letting dogs on beaches, with exception to specifically designated "dog beaches". A week ago Friday I joined some friends on the local dog beach at Vanier Park (next to Kits Beach) before heading over to the Folk Fest. Here's my favourite scene from that afternoon. No clue who dude is.

McDonald Beach

I have this long lost memory of being a little girl and my parents driving me out to McDonald Beach to have a picnic. The last time I visited McDonald Beach, it was probably in the early 80's. The memory's fuzzy. It was a community picnic or an Easter egg hunt, I think. I must have been no older than four.

Skip ahead 26 years.

















After a particularly eventful weekend, Sunday was our chance to chill, relax, and recover. We found ourselves going out for a leisurely drive, meandering through the East Van side streets, admiring the cherry blossoms and the houses and the views of the North Shore mountains. Super chill.

I was seeking inspiration for an outing, taking W 16th to Fraser, then down Fraser to 33rd, then up along Kingsway, then down Victoria, and eventually back west along W 49th. Queen Elizabeth Park? Trout Lake? Punjabi Market? It was after 6pm. Josh suggested we end at Jericho to catch the sunset. At that point we were closer to Kerrisdale. I had another idea. I decided to drive to the airport instead.

McDonald Beach (labeled "Woods Island Park" on Google Maps) is a Richmond city park tucked away in the north-west corner of Sea Island, just north of the Vancouver Airport at the end of McDonald Road.


View Larger Map

A tad off the beaten path would be an understatement, although it's easy to get to with a car. It's part boat launch, part off-leash dog park, part sandy beach, and part estuary forest. It sits hidden from civilization on the north arm of the Fraser River, across from Vancouver's Fraser River Park. Prior to colonization, it was the heart of the largest Musqueam Nation village.

Most Vancouverites don't even know McDonald Beach exists, or that a significant chunk of Sea Island was once known as Eburne, and sustained a proper community until the development of the Vancouver Airport drove them into exile.

After finding the correct road (drive towards YVR, exit on Templeton Street, and hook up to Ferguson Road which takes you to McDonald), we soon arrived at McDonald Beach, and it was really like going back in time to Richmond of my little girl memories: the smell of the Fraser and the cottonwoods. The sounds of the boats and birds. Dogs running through the fields. The smoky smell of the air and the earthy smell of the sand. Rogue logs and yellow Scotch broom. Airplanes taking off and distant views of the Lions.

We strolled up and down along the river, enjoying the tranquility and the rediscovery of this seemingly hidden park which, despite being seconds away from the airport, seemed to be far away from Vancouver as we knew it.

Next stop? Iona Park. To be continued.

Celebration of Lightning: a recap of Vancouver's summer storm

I thought I would finally post some photos from July 25, 2009.

I'll never forget this day.

It started out as a beautiful Saturday afternoon: clear skies, sunshine, temperatures in the mid 20's Celsius. We picked up BBQ supplies, called up our friends, and all met down at Spanish Banks.

When we set up on the beach it was 4pm and the tide was very low - one of the lowest tides I had seen there in a long time. You could barely even see the people - they were so far out!



We decided to head down to the beach and walk out to the water's edge.











Some of the guys went for a swim...





...it was around then when I looked east and noticed a big dark cloud looming over the city.



Uh-oh.

I knew it had to be raining over there, and we're not talking about a light drizzle. I just crossed my fingers and hoped that it wouldn't make it out our way. I mean, it was still sunny where we were.



Sort of.

I decided to head back. Back through the seaweed and sandbars and salt water channels.



Back at the site, we set up our BBQ and watched as the tide crept back in.





For several hours we enjoyed drinks, food, and one another's company, watching the tide coming in with all the people with it.





And that's when it started to happen.

We first heard the thunder off in the distance, and it was followed by bright flashes. But the lightning was far enough away, out in the mountains and over the city and suburbs, so we continued our BBQ. We continued like this for about half an hour before the rain set in. It was large, luscious drops of rain. It cleared out almost all of Spanish Banks to the point where we were the only ones left.

Strangely, we stayed and basked in it.

We watched the lightning light up the mountains across the water and behind us over the suburbs. We could see it fork down over downtown Vancouver, and we just stood there in awe.

Earlier in the day we had a hard time finding parking and a spot on the beach. And here we were, a few hours later, and the beach was vacant with exception to a few individuals like ourselves, shreiking with joy at the spectacle.

The thunder and lightning storm persisted at a distance, but the sun started to shine beneath the clouds. A rainbow appeared over downtown.



As the sun continued to lower itself under the storm clouds, the most beautiful golden light made the atmosphere absolutely magical.









The event became even more surreal when the sky changed colour, from purple, to orange, to red, all the while white and purple lightning bolts forked out over the mountains, the city, and the suburbs. I never managed to capture the lightning on camera, but I assure you it was divine.


Surreal skies turned apocalyptic red. And it was in the torrential downpour overlooking a now-crimson Burrard Inlet at sunset that we decided it was a perfect time go for a swim!







Foolish, perhaps in retrospect, but it'll definitely be a moment I will never forget.

Best of Summer 2009: Locarno Beach

On July 21st I joined my sister down at Locarno Beach. It was one of those spectacular evenings - clear skies, warm temperatures, high tide, and a million little sailboats out on Burrard Inlet. We ate dinner at the Galley restaurant (a local's secret at the top of the Jericho Sailing club) and spent our evening enjoying what Vancouver in the summer is all about.











View more of my photos from that evening, here.

Kitsilano - Vancouver's sexiest beach?

Kitsilano Beach on a slower, colder day
So it turns out that Forbes Traveler magazine has ranked Vancouver's meat market, Kits Beach, as one of the Top 10 Sexiest Beaches in North America.

Funnier yet is this photo which they decided to include with their article.

What were they thinking? Is that even Vancouver? It looks like it was taken in the Fraser River!

I mean, if you're going to write about the splendour of beachside debauchery "among the sand, beachwood, and mountain vistas", at least use a photo that fits the profile, like this!

Needless to say, the local media are in a frenzy about the ranking. Not a Michael Jackson-proportioned frenzy, thankfully.

Vancouver's Beaches

My sister and I playing around Kitsilano Beach, 1990.

One of Vancouver's greatest assets is its public beaches. At one moment you can be in the heart of the hustle and bustle and only minutes later transport yourself to where mountains and saltwater meet, where ocean kayakers are paddling, harbour seals are swimming, and blue herons are nesting in trees.

So close and yet worlds apart.

In 2006 I attended a UBC Geography alumni event where the guest lecturer was urban commentator Lance Berelowitz. Berelowitz had just released his book titled Dream City: Vancouver and the Global Imagination, and shared with us his thoughts on his adopted city. He remarked quite matter-of-factly that Vancouver doesn't have any real public gathering places in the urban core. Those that were designed as one are hardly ever used as such. Unlike other cities where public gatherings occur in the middle of the city - in city squares, city parks, and busy plazas - Vancouver's public gathering spaces are peripheral. The largest public collective experience (the HSBC Celebration of Light) exists for 4 days in the summer at the edge of the city along its waterfront, when over 100,000 come together and gaze outwards with their backs to Vancouver. That is the collective Vancouver experience, and really explains so much. His interpretation was rather enlightening and it really explained what made Vancouver feel different - something I could never put my finger on.

With that in mind, it becomes apparent that to really understand Vancouver - what makes it this liveable, enjoyable place (or so the polls apparently say) - you really have to experience Vancouver from its shore. Sure, Vancouver's beaches don't complete with those of Mexico, Hawaii, Brazil, or Australia, but nobody should come here seeking tropical water and powdery sand. Heck, the majority of these beaches have the sand trucked in! Vancouver's beaches (as rocky, dusty, or barnacle-infested as they are) are more about the scenery and recreation - they're spaces where one can venture alone or with others and feel connected with the spirit of the west coast. If anything, they'll give you a taste of what it means to live here and a chance to test out the local lifestyle.

My overviews of Vancouver's beaches are incomplete - basic at best - but should hopefully help give a sense of the differences between the popular beaches in and around Vancouver should you want to visit one... and you should!

English Bay Beach (map)

English Bay (rarely but sometimes known as First Beach) is the most popular downtown beach and one of Vancouver's oldest recreational sites. It's located at the focal point of the West End where Davie, Denman, and Beach intersect. The sand is a little on the dusty side, but you don't go there for the sand, you go for the view and the people watching.

In the summer months there's a kayak rental shop and floating waterslide for those brave enough to swim. On the last Wed/Sat of July and the first Wed/Sat of August, English Bay becomes packed with tens of thousands of people to watch the annual Celebration of Light fireworks competition - the best viewing location is here.

English Bay especially comes alive when it's sunny - especially moreso on warm, sunny evenings - the sunsets here are spectacular. English Bay tends to be a bit of an after-dinner stroll destination with all the little restaurants, coffee shops, and dessert places across the street on Denman. If you only have one evening in Vancouver and want to know where to end up at the end of your day, this is where I'd go.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/english.htm

Sunset Beach (map)

Sunset Beach is English Bay Beach's cousin to the southeast - a strip of gritty sand where False Creek opens into English Bay. It's mostly used by locals for recreational purposes because it's a lot less crowded than English Bay. The abundant pavement across from the beach makes it a popular place for ball hockey and skateboarders. There's also a tiny dog park where dogs can be let loose to frolic off leash - that part of the beach is underneath the Burrard Street Bridge east of where the False Creek Ferries dock.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/sunset.htm

Second Beach (map)

If English Bay is "First Beach" then next beach along the waterfront into Stanley Park is Second Beach. It's a smaller, more natural-feeling beach than English Bay with more of a family-friendly vibe. It has a massive concession stand, a large playground area, and an outdoor swimming pool right on the water. I remember coming here when I was 6 years old and it was one of my favourite places to play. In a way, the convenient infrastructure is what makes Second Beach super popular with families with young kids, especially those wanting a picnic.

Lost Lagoon (a major bird/raccoon habitat) is located behind the beach so you'll often get Canada geese feeding in the nearby fields. In the evening watch out for the resident skunk snooping around the garbage cans. And if you look up in sky at dusk, you'll spot bats flying around feeding on insects. In the summer months, there can often be spontaneously drum circles nearby.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/second.htm

Third Beach (map)

Third Beach is my favourite beach in Stanley Park. While it's a relatively small beach, it has some of the cleanest, softest sand in town, and a very peaceful, relaxing atmosphere.

Third Beach is located on the opposite side of Stanley Park's entrance, so I think that half the attraction of the beach for me is that it requires a tad bit more effort to get to, which is why it's never as crowded as English Bay or as busy as Second Beach. It just feels like you're more secluded... like you're on vacation on some island, miles away from the city.

There are logs placed in rows along the beach, which offers a bit of privacy. There are designated swimming areas, and life guards on duty during the summer. As well, there is a concession stand up the stairs from Third Beach which is open when the weather's nice, selling hot dogs, hamburgers, ice cream, and other fun snack food.

Oh, and the sunsets? They're absolutely spectacular from here!

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/PARKS/rec/beaches/3rd_beach.htm

Kitsilano Beach (map)

Kits Beach is the über popular beach - the gem of Kitsilano. It's also somewhat of a meat market as far as Vancouver beaches go. Located where Arbutus and Cornwall intersect, if you're seeking beautiful bodies, beach volleyball, and an overall Santa Monica vibe, this is where you'd get it. A large public swimming pools flanks the side of the beach - a popular summer activity. Basketball courts, tennis courts, and large green spaces means this is the quintessential summer hangout for locals when people watching is in order. Very popular with local students chilling out, playing ultimate, hacky sack, or just sleeping in the sun. Lots of great restaurants along Yew and Cornwall nearby (Octopus' Garden and Hapa Izakaya come to mind) making it a great after-dinner stroll. The views of downtown, the mountains, and English Bay make for those postcard perfect photos of Vancouver - the kind you send to your out-of-town friends to make them feel envious of your beachy lifestyle.

Vanier Park dog beach (map)

Technically called Hadden Park, it's not really a beach you'll want to lounge around and sunbathe on unless you're seeking the company of playful off-leash dogs! This tiny sandy beach at the base of the cliffs on the west side of Vanier Park is a designated dog beach where it's legal to keep your dogs off leash. I've honestly seen 30+ dogs on this tiny beach at one time. It's amusing nonetheless.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parkfinder_wa/index.cfm?fuseaction=FAC.ParkDetails&park_id=110

Jericho Beach (map)

Jericho Beach is located in front of Jericho Park in Kitsilano by Alma and 4th Ave along the southern shore of English Bay. Jericho forms the eastern segment of the vast Vancouver beach that stretches from the northern foot of Alma Street at the way west to the cliffs at UBC. Famous for being a large mellow beach with plenty of green space - a popular place for large group gatherings, picnics, beach volleyball. Sailing club nearby means lots of boating activity, including a rather large windsurfing community. This beach is also ground zero for the Vancouver Folk Festival in July - an incredible must-do-at-least-once Vancouver experience, just for the ambiance of it all.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/jericho.htm

Locarno Beach (map)


Just west of Jericho, Locarno is the next beach over and one of my favourite evening picnic sites. You can drive right up and presto - instant beautiful scenery, gorgeous evening light, kayakers, harbour seals, blue herons, people playing volleyball, people having large family picnics. There are numerous picnic tables located in a variety of locations - in cedar groves, in grassy fields, or right at the sand's edge. The beach is pretty spacious, all things considered. In the day it can be quite busy with recreation but by evening it's this absolutely spectacular.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/locarno.htm

Spanish Banks (map)

West of Locarno and Jericho - and to be honest, it's just a continuation of them both. Spanish Banks is at the base of Pacific Spirit Regional Park closest to UBC - lots of green spaces and wide stretches of sandy beach make this a popular "let's get out of the city" beach despite the fact that you're on the fringe's of Vancouver's most expensive residential neighbourhood, West Point Grey. The massive green spaces and endless parking makes this a popular picnic and group gathering site. Named after the Spanish explorers of the 1770's - the first Europeans to scout these shores - the beach's official name is "Spanish Bank", but almost everyone makes the name plural. I'm not sure why.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/spanishbank.htm#speast

Wreck Beach (map)
The famous "clothing optional" beach and one of the last remaining beaches in Vancouver where the hippy legacy continues. Drum circles, naked people, bonfires, skimboarders, university students - those looking to chill. For the longest time it used to be known as the only beach where there was no view of civilization from the shore, up until a few years ago when UBC developed condos nearby - a cause of greatly heated debate. Despite the occasional RCMP patrol, the area is known for its cheerful black market where vendors (nude or otherwise) go around selling alcohol, recreational drugs, food and trinkets. Some call Wreck Beach a nude beach, but it's a bit of a misnomer as every time I've been here (summer or otherwise) the majority of people were clothed. As long as you're respectful, all are welcome. Located at the base of steep rainforest-covered cliffs behind the Museum of Anthropology out at UBC, it's only accessible by a staircase carved into the cliffs. Be prepared for a strenuous climb up afterward.

Official website: http://www.wreckbeach.org/

Tower Beach (map)

Around the corner from Wreck Beach is Tower Beach, named after the long abandoned WWII pillboxes installed to warn of Japanese attacks that never came. Like Wreck, you can't get to Tower Beach without descending stairs down a cliff, although one set of stairs follows down a ravine. As far as beaches go, it's mostly cobble and eroding cliffs - a beach best used as a field trip destination where local physical geography professors drag their students to ponder the Vashon till and rates of erosion. (Don't ask how I know). It's not known as a clothing optional beach, although you will find the occasional lost nudist wandering over while confused university students stand around pretending not to notice. When I studied at UBC I sometimes used Tower Beach as a quiet place to stroll around to waste time between classes. And on dreamy June nights, a week before summer soltice, spontanious parties happen where admidst the poi dancing, drummers, and DJ's, hundreds of locals unite to embrace the morning sun.

Unofficial website:http://www.english.ubc.ca/PROJECTS/TRAIL3/BEACHES/