Happy 125th Birthday Vancouver

You're a gorgeous city, and it's a gorgeous day. What more could you want?

Dog Beach

Vancouver's about as dog-friendly as it comes, but they're still pretty strict in regards to letting dogs on beaches, with exception to specifically designated "dog beaches". A week ago Friday I joined some friends on the local dog beach at Vanier Park (next to Kits Beach) before heading over to the Folk Fest. Here's my favourite scene from that afternoon. No clue who dude is.

Lazy days in Kitsilano...

My sister moved into one of those old creaky houses off of Waterloo and Broadway in Kits, perhaps one of my favourite neighbourhoods for just lazying around on a summer-like evening. The lush gardens, the chirping of the birds, the cool breeze, and the smell of freshly-brewed coffee is sometimes all it takes to make a picture perfect evening.

Kitsilano - Vancouver's sexiest beach?

Kitsilano Beach on a slower, colder day
So it turns out that Forbes Traveler magazine has ranked Vancouver's meat market, Kits Beach, as one of the Top 10 Sexiest Beaches in North America.

Funnier yet is this photo which they decided to include with their article.

What were they thinking? Is that even Vancouver? It looks like it was taken in the Fraser River!

I mean, if you're going to write about the splendour of beachside debauchery "among the sand, beachwood, and mountain vistas", at least use a photo that fits the profile, like this!

Needless to say, the local media are in a frenzy about the ranking. Not a Michael Jackson-proportioned frenzy, thankfully.

Vancouver's Beaches

My sister and I playing around Kitsilano Beach, 1990.

One of Vancouver's greatest assets is its public beaches. At one moment you can be in the heart of the hustle and bustle and only minutes later transport yourself to where mountains and saltwater meet, where ocean kayakers are paddling, harbour seals are swimming, and blue herons are nesting in trees.

So close and yet worlds apart.

In 2006 I attended a UBC Geography alumni event where the guest lecturer was urban commentator Lance Berelowitz. Berelowitz had just released his book titled Dream City: Vancouver and the Global Imagination, and shared with us his thoughts on his adopted city. He remarked quite matter-of-factly that Vancouver doesn't have any real public gathering places in the urban core. Those that were designed as one are hardly ever used as such. Unlike other cities where public gatherings occur in the middle of the city - in city squares, city parks, and busy plazas - Vancouver's public gathering spaces are peripheral. The largest public collective experience (the HSBC Celebration of Light) exists for 4 days in the summer at the edge of the city along its waterfront, when over 100,000 come together and gaze outwards with their backs to Vancouver. That is the collective Vancouver experience, and really explains so much. His interpretation was rather enlightening and it really explained what made Vancouver feel different - something I could never put my finger on.

With that in mind, it becomes apparent that to really understand Vancouver - what makes it this liveable, enjoyable place (or so the polls apparently say) - you really have to experience Vancouver from its shore. Sure, Vancouver's beaches don't complete with those of Mexico, Hawaii, Brazil, or Australia, but nobody should come here seeking tropical water and powdery sand. Heck, the majority of these beaches have the sand trucked in! Vancouver's beaches (as rocky, dusty, or barnacle-infested as they are) are more about the scenery and recreation - they're spaces where one can venture alone or with others and feel connected with the spirit of the west coast. If anything, they'll give you a taste of what it means to live here and a chance to test out the local lifestyle.

My overviews of Vancouver's beaches are incomplete - basic at best - but should hopefully help give a sense of the differences between the popular beaches in and around Vancouver should you want to visit one... and you should!

English Bay Beach (map)

English Bay (rarely but sometimes known as First Beach) is the most popular downtown beach and one of Vancouver's oldest recreational sites. It's located at the focal point of the West End where Davie, Denman, and Beach intersect. The sand is a little on the dusty side, but you don't go there for the sand, you go for the view and the people watching.

In the summer months there's a kayak rental shop and floating waterslide for those brave enough to swim. On the last Wed/Sat of July and the first Wed/Sat of August, English Bay becomes packed with tens of thousands of people to watch the annual Celebration of Light fireworks competition - the best viewing location is here.

English Bay especially comes alive when it's sunny - especially moreso on warm, sunny evenings - the sunsets here are spectacular. English Bay tends to be a bit of an after-dinner stroll destination with all the little restaurants, coffee shops, and dessert places across the street on Denman. If you only have one evening in Vancouver and want to know where to end up at the end of your day, this is where I'd go.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/english.htm

Sunset Beach (map)

Sunset Beach is English Bay Beach's cousin to the southeast - a strip of gritty sand where False Creek opens into English Bay. It's mostly used by locals for recreational purposes because it's a lot less crowded than English Bay. The abundant pavement across from the beach makes it a popular place for ball hockey and skateboarders. There's also a tiny dog park where dogs can be let loose to frolic off leash - that part of the beach is underneath the Burrard Street Bridge east of where the False Creek Ferries dock.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/sunset.htm

Second Beach (map)

If English Bay is "First Beach" then next beach along the waterfront into Stanley Park is Second Beach. It's a smaller, more natural-feeling beach than English Bay with more of a family-friendly vibe. It has a massive concession stand, a large playground area, and an outdoor swimming pool right on the water. I remember coming here when I was 6 years old and it was one of my favourite places to play. In a way, the convenient infrastructure is what makes Second Beach super popular with families with young kids, especially those wanting a picnic.

Lost Lagoon (a major bird/raccoon habitat) is located behind the beach so you'll often get Canada geese feeding in the nearby fields. In the evening watch out for the resident skunk snooping around the garbage cans. And if you look up in sky at dusk, you'll spot bats flying around feeding on insects. In the summer months, there can often be spontaneously drum circles nearby.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/second.htm

Third Beach (map)

Third Beach is my favourite beach in Stanley Park. While it's a relatively small beach, it has some of the cleanest, softest sand in town, and a very peaceful, relaxing atmosphere.

Third Beach is located on the opposite side of Stanley Park's entrance, so I think that half the attraction of the beach for me is that it requires a tad bit more effort to get to, which is why it's never as crowded as English Bay or as busy as Second Beach. It just feels like you're more secluded... like you're on vacation on some island, miles away from the city.

There are logs placed in rows along the beach, which offers a bit of privacy. There are designated swimming areas, and life guards on duty during the summer. As well, there is a concession stand up the stairs from Third Beach which is open when the weather's nice, selling hot dogs, hamburgers, ice cream, and other fun snack food.

Oh, and the sunsets? They're absolutely spectacular from here!

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/PARKS/rec/beaches/3rd_beach.htm

Kitsilano Beach (map)

Kits Beach is the über popular beach - the gem of Kitsilano. It's also somewhat of a meat market as far as Vancouver beaches go. Located where Arbutus and Cornwall intersect, if you're seeking beautiful bodies, beach volleyball, and an overall Santa Monica vibe, this is where you'd get it. A large public swimming pools flanks the side of the beach - a popular summer activity. Basketball courts, tennis courts, and large green spaces means this is the quintessential summer hangout for locals when people watching is in order. Very popular with local students chilling out, playing ultimate, hacky sack, or just sleeping in the sun. Lots of great restaurants along Yew and Cornwall nearby (Octopus' Garden and Hapa Izakaya come to mind) making it a great after-dinner stroll. The views of downtown, the mountains, and English Bay make for those postcard perfect photos of Vancouver - the kind you send to your out-of-town friends to make them feel envious of your beachy lifestyle.

Vanier Park dog beach (map)

Technically called Hadden Park, it's not really a beach you'll want to lounge around and sunbathe on unless you're seeking the company of playful off-leash dogs! This tiny sandy beach at the base of the cliffs on the west side of Vanier Park is a designated dog beach where it's legal to keep your dogs off leash. I've honestly seen 30+ dogs on this tiny beach at one time. It's amusing nonetheless.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parkfinder_wa/index.cfm?fuseaction=FAC.ParkDetails&park_id=110

Jericho Beach (map)

Jericho Beach is located in front of Jericho Park in Kitsilano by Alma and 4th Ave along the southern shore of English Bay. Jericho forms the eastern segment of the vast Vancouver beach that stretches from the northern foot of Alma Street at the way west to the cliffs at UBC. Famous for being a large mellow beach with plenty of green space - a popular place for large group gatherings, picnics, beach volleyball. Sailing club nearby means lots of boating activity, including a rather large windsurfing community. This beach is also ground zero for the Vancouver Folk Festival in July - an incredible must-do-at-least-once Vancouver experience, just for the ambiance of it all.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/jericho.htm

Locarno Beach (map)


Just west of Jericho, Locarno is the next beach over and one of my favourite evening picnic sites. You can drive right up and presto - instant beautiful scenery, gorgeous evening light, kayakers, harbour seals, blue herons, people playing volleyball, people having large family picnics. There are numerous picnic tables located in a variety of locations - in cedar groves, in grassy fields, or right at the sand's edge. The beach is pretty spacious, all things considered. In the day it can be quite busy with recreation but by evening it's this absolutely spectacular.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/locarno.htm

Spanish Banks (map)

West of Locarno and Jericho - and to be honest, it's just a continuation of them both. Spanish Banks is at the base of Pacific Spirit Regional Park closest to UBC - lots of green spaces and wide stretches of sandy beach make this a popular "let's get out of the city" beach despite the fact that you're on the fringe's of Vancouver's most expensive residential neighbourhood, West Point Grey. The massive green spaces and endless parking makes this a popular picnic and group gathering site. Named after the Spanish explorers of the 1770's - the first Europeans to scout these shores - the beach's official name is "Spanish Bank", but almost everyone makes the name plural. I'm not sure why.

Official website: http://vancouver.ca/parks/rec/beaches/spanishbank.htm#speast

Wreck Beach (map)
The famous "clothing optional" beach and one of the last remaining beaches in Vancouver where the hippy legacy continues. Drum circles, naked people, bonfires, skimboarders, university students - those looking to chill. For the longest time it used to be known as the only beach where there was no view of civilization from the shore, up until a few years ago when UBC developed condos nearby - a cause of greatly heated debate. Despite the occasional RCMP patrol, the area is known for its cheerful black market where vendors (nude or otherwise) go around selling alcohol, recreational drugs, food and trinkets. Some call Wreck Beach a nude beach, but it's a bit of a misnomer as every time I've been here (summer or otherwise) the majority of people were clothed. As long as you're respectful, all are welcome. Located at the base of steep rainforest-covered cliffs behind the Museum of Anthropology out at UBC, it's only accessible by a staircase carved into the cliffs. Be prepared for a strenuous climb up afterward.

Official website: http://www.wreckbeach.org/

Tower Beach (map)

Around the corner from Wreck Beach is Tower Beach, named after the long abandoned WWII pillboxes installed to warn of Japanese attacks that never came. Like Wreck, you can't get to Tower Beach without descending stairs down a cliff, although one set of stairs follows down a ravine. As far as beaches go, it's mostly cobble and eroding cliffs - a beach best used as a field trip destination where local physical geography professors drag their students to ponder the Vashon till and rates of erosion. (Don't ask how I know). It's not known as a clothing optional beach, although you will find the occasional lost nudist wandering over while confused university students stand around pretending not to notice. When I studied at UBC I sometimes used Tower Beach as a quiet place to stroll around to waste time between classes. And on dreamy June nights, a week before summer soltice, spontanious parties happen where admidst the poi dancing, drummers, and DJ's, hundreds of locals unite to embrace the morning sun.

Unofficial website:http://www.english.ubc.ca/PROJECTS/TRAIL3/BEACHES/

Kits in the fog

It was yet another foggy day in Vancouver. I snapped this photo while passing by Kitsilano Beach Park. The water is right behind the trees, but of course, it's been obscured.

Kitsilano: a neighbourhood overview

Kitsilano (aka "Kits") is a popular Vancouver neighbourhood. It's located south-west of downtown Vancouver and is bordered by Alma Street to the west, Burrard Street to the east, W 16th Avenue to the south, and Burrard Inlet to the north.

Kitsilano's neighbourhood boundary (in red)

Kits is often thought of as a trendy beachfront community which is home to many environmental and health conscious folk, yoga and fitness buffs, yuppies, university students, and middle class families. These are huge generalizations for sure, but you get the idea. And hey, David Suzuki lives there!

David Suzuki

Kits used to be the heart of Vancouver's hippy counter-culture in the late 1960's. While some places, like The Naam - a 24 hour vegetarian restaurant - are still around from that era, Kits has undergone a lot of gentrification since then. But if you're interested in Vancouver's hippy era, this video is slightly amusing:


Hippy culture in Vancouver, 1967

People like Kits because it's close to downtown but you don't have to deal with the noise or the hustle and bustle outside your bedroom window. While it has many small apartments, the residential side streets are mostly lined with beautiful houses with lush, mature gardens. In April the trees along the streets are in bloom with delightful pink cherry blossoms. The average Kits house sells for about $1,200,000 these days, but if that's too much, you can always rent a small basement suite for around $1000 a month.

I think Kitsilano really gives people a sense of what living in Vancouver is all about. Here are the places I think would be the most interesting to a visitor:

Kits Beach

Located along Cornwall Avenue, this is one of Vancouver's most popular beaches. In addition to the sandy beach, it has an outdoor swimming pool, beach volleyball nets, outdoor tennis courts, outdoor basketball courts, and lots of green space. It tends to be one of the busiest beaches in the summer months and can be a bit of a meat market as far as Vancouver's beach culture goes. It's an excellent people-watching location as it's a popular hangout for locals, especially on summer evenings - the sunsets are spectacular. And when you're feeling peckish, there are pubs, cafes, and restaurants across the street along Cornwall and Yew.


Kits Beach on an April afternoon


...and a sunset later that day


The pubs, cafes, and restaurants across the street

West 4th Avenue

This is the commercial heart of Kitsilano. It has a good selection of restaurants and boutiques, including some local institutions such as Zulu Records, Skull Skates, Duthie Books, and Bishop's. There are also some notable grocery options along W 4th including the locally-founded organic and natural foods specialty store, Capers Community Market. W 4th is also known for its cluster of snowboard and skateboard shops which are located just east of Burrard.

Vanier Park

This is a large and relatively nondescript grassy park immediately north-east of Kits Beach at the mouth of False Creek (the body of water that separates the downtown peninsula from Kitsilano). Vanier Park's home to three small museums which are worth visiting on a rainy day: the Vancouver Maritime Museum, the Vancouver Museum, and the H.R. MacMillan Space Centre (otherwise known as the Planetarium).

In the summer months Vanier Park hosts the annual Bard on the Beach Shakespeare festival. There's also a "dog beach" along the west side of Vanier Park where people can take their dogs off-leash (which is typically not permitted on city beaches otherwise). And for those venturing across False Creek, you can catch a water taxi from the dock at Vanier Park.


Vanier Park


Vanier Park's dog-friendly beach

West Broadway

This is the second commercial heart of Kits located along Broadway west of Macdonald. This particular stretch of Kitsilano feels more like a village in atmosphere, and since it's about 10 blocks away from the water, it lacks the beachy vibe. Because it's closer to UBC (and along a major bus route), it has a large student population. W Broadway is not as self-consciously trendy as W 4th, but that's precisely its charm.

What I like about this area is its slower pace and its mix of smaller, independently-owned boutiques and services. While there are some fantastic shops like the über high end men's boutique Mark James Clothing, and some great restaurants like the cozy and exotic East is East, I quite enjoy the neighbourhood's locally-owned bakeries, delis, and cafes. My favourites is Notte's Bon Ton Pastry & Confectionary which is possibly Vancouver's longest-running pastry shop. And finally, Kitsilano is the traditional home of Vancouver's Greek community, so you'll find a few Greek restaurants and speciality shops, like Parthenon Importers. In the summer, they close down entire blocks of Broadway so that the neighbourhood can hosts its annual Greek Day festival.